Leaving Accra today for the Volta Region. It has been
music, music, music, all this week. We have not even blogged about all that we
have seen. As I write this, I am listening to a full-on gospel church that
began at 8am this morning. They rent space here at Yiri Lodge every Sunday and
the congregation is super dressed up and singing fantastic gospel music in the
local language Twi, as well as English accompanied by a great (and loud) combo
of keyboards, guitar, bass and drum kit. No sleeping in on Sunday!
Last Thursday night we all went to
the campus to see the end of term performance by students at the drama/dance
department. Very impressive.
Yesterday evening we had a private
performance and hands-on demo of some contemporary traditional music at the Lodge. I invited Atente and the Warriors,
an Ewe family originally from Togo.
My contact was Kofi Agbo who
plays all over Accra in addition to his family band. They brought Kpanlogo
drums, atenteben flute, aslatua and axatse shakers , a gome drum (like a cahon
but with a skin head and originally from Jamaica), and balafon. Such a
beautiful combo together. They played several pieces then let the students try
out some of the instruments.
Kofi Agbo then led us on a “five
minute” (read 25 minute) walk to East Legon to a wonderful restaurant and club
called Chez Afrique, an institution
here in Accra. A fantastic band played virtually without breaks, including a
great trumpet player, which we have not seen in any bands yet. We ate some food at the outdoor patio,
including gari fotor and octopus and
guinea fowl kebabs. And danced a bunch (of course!!!). Kofi danced like a wild man, and a
couple of his brothers sat in with the band. It was a seriously hip scene for our last night.
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